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Discovering a Connected Life in the Peruvian Amazon

Today's post comes from Irene Lane, the founder of Greenloons - a premier online resource dedicated to inspiring people to think different, be different and travel different in ways that help to ensure a more sustainable planet.

Golden Spotted Frog Near Tambopata Research Center

When I was younger, my preferred travel destinations were always cities. Perhaps it was because from the ages of 5 to 18, I lived in smaller towns, or maybe it was because I found cities to be life-affirming, educational, and liberating. Whatever the reason, I felt rejuvenated after a trip to Singapore, London, Paris, Sydney, or even New York. However, that sentiment changed with a recent trip to the Peruvian Amazon.

It was my third trip to a rainforest ecosystem and my second to the Amazon, but everything else about this trip would end up being unique. I was invited by Rainforest Expeditions in Peru, to participate in one of their wildlife photography safaris through the Tambopata National Reserve, a relatively remote and unexplored area of the Amazon.

Bursting with life

In a country where there are issues with water pollution, soil erosion, and deforestation, the Tambopata National Reserve is a fledgling success story of the symbiotic relationship that can exist between natural resources, wildlife, and cultural standards.

As a result, the region is bursting with life. It is not just the vast wildlife contained within the rainforest with its jaguars, caimans, capybaras, black hawks, geese, macaws, turtles, monkeys, peccaries, frogs, butterflies, and countless tree and plant species. Life was also encompassed within the sweet smell of the afternoon rains as we relaxed in hammocks at the Rainforest Alliance Verified™ Refugio Amazonas Lodge.

Parrots Pecking for Salk at the Clay Lick

My fellow travelers and I listened with rapt attention and fascination as we asked questions and learned from the area's volunteer ecologists, who were observing the habits and habitats of the myriad of butterfly, frog, and bird species in the region.

I observed life in the easy smiles of my three guides -- a professional photographer, an entomologist, and a local guide -- spotting what my suburban eyes always missed and eagerly imparting their knowledge about the mysteries of the rainforest. I learned that caimans are smaller, distant cousins of crocodiles with pointier heads, shorter tails, and U-shaped noses. And that butterflies drink the salty "tears" of the endangered yellow spotted river turtles, which helps the butterflies to reproduce.

The leaf-cutter ants that roam the rainforest floor live in communities of workers consisting of wingless female ants that never reproduce and male ants whose only function is to mate with a queen (after which he may die). Theirs is a truly female-led (and organized) society!

Caiman On The Shores of Rio Tambopata

Connecting with communities and nature

Ultimately, what changed my perspective was the profound sense of connection I quickly felt with the Peruvian rainforest. I felt connected to the local community because I stayed in sustainable lodges that partner with local families and businesses, sharing the social, economic, and environmental benefits of ecotourism.

I felt connected to the forest when the caiman "smiled" for my photo, and when I stared right into a frog's eyes and knew that it was just as curious about life as I am. On several occasions, peccaries suddenly emerged en masse from the rainforest, settled into the ecolodge's front clearing to eat some roots, and then completely disappeared 20 minutes later. I learned how to use medicinal plants to cure skin diseases, organ failure, and even addiction.

I wasn't merely observing the multitude of life around me, as I do when visiting cities. Instead, I felt like a direct participant doing her part to respect life, nature, culture, and the future.

Finally, I felt privileged to be among the people and indigenous tribe communities that work hard to preserve their culture and protect the land that, in turn, protects them in times of need - a truly connected life!

Sunrise through the Tambopata canopy

Photo of the Week: Royal Crest

Vea esta publicación en español.

Photo by by Andrew Snyde

Most of the time, the Amazonian royal flycatcher (Onychorhynchus coronatus coronatus) looks like an ordinary bird. But during courtship rituals and while competing with other males, this little bird shows a fantastic feather display on the crown of its head--a brilliant array of red, yellow, white, blue, and/or black.

This spectacular image of an Amazonian royal flycatcher with its royal red crest was taken in Guyana by Andrew Snyder for National Geographic's Your Shot.

This species is found in forests and woodlands throughout most of the Amazon basin in northern Bolivia, eastern Peru, eastern Ecuador, eastern Colombia, Venezuela, the Guyanas, and northern and western Brazil.

Cool Creatures of the Forest: The Spot-billed Toucanet

Travel to the Atlantic Forest of South America (in southeastern Brazil, eastern Paraguay, and eastern Argentina) and you might spot one of these gorgeous feathered friends! The spot-billed toucanet is easily distinguishable for its interesting bill pattern, which usually consists of black spots or stripes on a pale background. This gorgeous member of the toucan family forages for fruit in the forest canopy, often hanging around in pairs.

Photo taken at Posada Puerto Bemberg in the Puerto Bemberg Nature Reserve in Argentina.

Making a Difference: Yacutinga Lodge

Vea esta publicación en español.

Yacutinga Lodge, Argentina

Our Making a Difference winner this month is Yacutinga Lodge, a very special sustainable lodge in Argentina located in the middle of the jungle and very close to one of South America's most famous attractions -- Iguazu Falls. The hotel is part of a small group of lodging providers in the department of Misiones that recently achieved Rainforest Alliance verification for sustainable tourism. As the first business in Argentina to earn Rainforest Alliance verification, it is a pioneer in the field of sustainability nationwide.

Yacutinga Lodge's director Carlos Sandoval tells us more about why tourists love this hotel, its history, and its efforts to remain an ally of the environment.

Question: What makes Yacutinga Lodge's location so special?

Sandoval: Yacutinga Lodge is located in one of the last remnants of the Interior Atlantic Forest ecoregion, which used to be the second largest forest in Latin America up until the early 20th century. Today, the forest that's left remains an area of very high biodiversity, rich in endemic species, with nearly 500 species of birds and more than 700 species of butterflies. Our guests can explore the curiosities of this subtropical forest accompanied by professional ecologists and native Guarani guides in Yacutinga's private nature reserve.

In addition, we are close to the legendary Iguazu Falls, a main attraction for visitors to southern South America.

Q: Why did you decide to build a sustainable lodge instead of a traditional one?

Sandoval: Yacutinga Lodge was created to be the economic backbone of a larger environmental project in the region. It was made for lovers of nature and for the intelligent traveler who wants to interact responsibly with the environment.

Yacutinga Lodge, Argentina

Q: What are the importance and benefits of becoming Rainforest Alliance VerifiedTM ?

Sandoval: Achieving Rainforest Alliance verification is a reflection of our commitment to continuous improvement. We are delighted to receive this distinction after working so hard since the lodge was opened years ago to support sustainability. We hope that the Rainforest Alliance verified seal will now help us attract responsible tourists and build a sustainable identity.

Q: What were the main challenges you had to overcome to build and now run a business that is friendly to the environment and the communities?

Sandoval: Throughout the history of this project, there was one undeniable challenge: building with local labor in a quasi-pristine environment of tangled, wet jungle, far from modern civilization. It took us two years of intensive but highly constructive and creative work. Everyone involved participated enthusiastically, sharing technical or empirical knowledge and showing great coordination to optimize costs and efforts in a difficult working environment that had no drinking water, electricity, or roads. We consider ourselves late 20th century pioneers.

After inaugurating Yacutinga, the second great challenge began: constantly improving the delivery of services to ensure guest satisfaction and to keep local staff trained. This chapter is still alive, and it is a never ending process.

Q: How has Yacutinga's private wildlife refuge helped protect the valuable ecosystem in which it's located?

Sandoval: The refuge, which we administer, has been essential in protecting the region's natural resources. This reserve is a stronghold for the conservation of the Paraná Forest. Many scientific studies funded by Yacutinga Lodge have been carried out that have high academic value and have provided important data for improving our management of the area. We've used this information to make the hotel a self-sustaining economic and conservation system.

More than 320 species of birds and 572 species of butterflies have been documented in the reserve, and we even discovered 70 species that were new to Argentina and one subspecies new to science! We have planted over 20,000 native trees in the reserve as part of the project for forestry enrichment that we have been developing for six years. We also have volunteer and environmental education programs that we consider the soul of the Yacutinga project.

Yacutinga Lodge, Argentina

Q: Do you do anything to benefit the Guarani indigenous people?

Sandoval: The neighboring Kagui Pora community is a Guarani settlement of about 45 families who have many immediate and structural needs. We are constantly supporting them, not with a "charitable" approach but rather by training them to adapt to the dynamic of today's world without losing their roots. Little by little, and with great respect, we invite them to be involved in our ecotourism activities and our DO project, which aims to recycle non-polluting wastes generated by the lodge and transform them into art.

Q: How can tourists get involved with your sustainability efforts?

Sandoval: We invite guests to actively participate during their stay and provide ideas and contacts to help them do so. We do not ask for help or donations; we encourage them to have a respectful and responsible attitude toward our ecosystem and the local communities.

Q: What are Yacutinga's plans for keeping current and making improvements in the realm of sustainability?

Sandoval: We believe that keeping current requires constant improvement and maintaining the love for what you do. Regarding project sustainability, we aim to get the authorities more actively engaged with our work, since the threats are coming from outside of our gates. We need a stronger stance from those who govern us, one that is characterized by a long-term vision for solving together the negative impacts generated by the exploitative culture that has traditionally prevailed in the area.

Brazilian Logger Turned Birder Aims to Turn His Community into Bird Sanctuary

Vea esta publicación en español.

Photo by Darío Sánchez

In the heart of the Brazilian Amazon is the Rio Negro Sustainable Development Reserve, an area that is rich in biodiversity and home to several small communities that depend on natural resources for a living. Pousada Garrido is the only hotel in the Tumbira region, and it is owned by a former logger and community leader named Roberto Mendonça.

Pousada Garrido has become a source of income for Mendonça as well as several other local families who offer tourism services to visitors. The inn also uses solar energy (as does the entire community), recycles, supports local artisans with reusable materials, and purchases foods from local producers. This year, Pousada Garrido earned Rainforest Alliance verification for sustainable tourism.

Tourists are drawn to Tumbira for the richness and exuberance of its forests, including the many bird species that abound there. Mendonça partnered with a local tour guide named Cleudilon, whose nickname is Passarinho, or "little bird" in Portuguese, because he can perfectly imitate 32 types of birds! (Scroll down to see an awesome video of Cleudilon calling to birds in the forest.) The two recently undertook a project to make the inn into a perfect site for bird watching. And you can help make it happen! Visit the community's crowdfunding page, to help them turn Tumbira into a community-based ecotourism center.

Paula Arantes of Garupa, the NGO helping Mendonça and Cleudilon raise money for the project, tells us more about the initiative.

Question: What is the plan for the money you hope to raise?

Paula Arantes: Roberto and Cleudilon want to turn their community into a birding and community tourism center. To get started, they intend to adapt the infrastructure of Pousada Garrido to sustainably accommodate more guests and provide what is needed for birding. They also want to publish a guide to the local birdlife as a reference for tourists and an educational resource for the children of the community.

Q: Why are Tumbira and Pousada Garrido such special places for bird watching?

Arantes: Though you can see birds everywhere in Amazon, Tumbira is special because its pathways make it easy to see many varieties of birds, and the area is easily accessible by land or by boat. Furthermore, Cleudilon's incredible talent for imitating birds and really enhances the birding experience.

Q: What do you need to carry out the project?

Arantes: Investments need to be made to expand the inn without negatively impacting the environment. More equipment is also needed for bird watching, and Cleudilon needs resources to develop the bird guide. The goal is to raise around US$8,800 (20,000 Brazilian reales) to help cover building materials, labor, the development of the guide, and more.

Q: What progress has been made so far?

Arantes: Thanks to the Rainforest Alliance verification process, we've identified the appropriate areas for making investments and improvements in a sustainable way.

Q: How does this project benefit the community?

Arantes: More tourists means more sustainable income for the residents! Supporting community-based tourism is one of the best ways for travelers to ensure that their vacation is sustainable.

Q: How can people help?

Arantes: On the project page on the Garupa website, you can find more details about the initiative and make an online donation to co-finance this effort. Donors receive tokens of appreciation, such as photographs, the bird guide, and even stays at the inn, depending on the amount contributed. Donating any amount, no matter how small, and sharing our project with your friends and family is the best way to make Roberto's dream a reality!

Watch this amazing video to see how Cleudilon imitates birds!

Photo of the Week: The Istian River

Photo by Totoco Eco Lodge

The island of Ometepe is quite a unique place: formed by two twin volcanoes joined by a low isthmus, giving it the shape of an hourglass, it is the largest volcanic island in a freshwater lake in the world.

There are many activities to enjoy in Ometepe: hiking the steep volcanoes, riding motorbikes, visiting waterfalls and eco-farms, swimming in the massive blue lake, and going kayaking along the Istian River– one of the most popular tourist attractions!

Istian is a sanctuary for resident and migratory birds. The river and the swamp are not large, but there are a few different canals to paddle down where you can enjoy being surrounded by rich vegetation and spotting birds, monkeys, turtles, and caimans. During the relaxing ride, you will also be treated to some of the most amazing views of the Maderas and Concepcion volcanos.

This photo is from Totoco Eco Lodge, which helps guests arrange tours on the Istian River.

Photo of the Week: The Coveted Scarlet Macaw

Vea esta publicación en español.

Photo by Costa Rican Trails

The beauty of the colorful and stunning scarlet macaws (Ara macao) is such that even the Maya and the Aztecs equated them with the deities of fire and sun. These ancient peoples used their image in various artistic works and adorned themselves with the macaw's striking feathers.

Unfortunately, the scarlet macaw's beauty has now put it in danger. They live in tropical rainforests from southeastern Mexico to central Bolivia, and in many countries they are endangered due to the loss of their habitat from deforestation and indiscriminate hunting for the illegal pet trade.

This photo is from a tour with Costa Rican Trails. Around 1,000 scarlet macaws live in Costa Rica today, and there are many protected areas and organizations dedicated to their protection. Be sure to always book your trips with sustainable tourism businesses so you can rest easy, knowing that you're contributing to the conservation of these and other beautiful wildlife species!

5 Unique Creatures of the Galapagos

Vea esta publicación en español.

The Galapagos Islands, an archipelago of volcanic islands located 656 miles off the coast of Ecuador, are famous for their stunning and well preserved natural beauty, including a large number of endemic species that are some of the world's most exotic animals.

Today we present five of the most famous animals that are unique to the Galapagos:

1. Giant tortoise (Chelonoidis nigra)

Photo by Andean Travel Company

These are the largest turtles in the world and among the longest living. The largest Galapagos giant tortoise measured almost 6 feet and weight over 880 lbs. They can live over 100 years in the wild while captive individuals have been known to reach 170 years.

Today there are only 11 kinds of giant tortoise in the Galapagos, down from 15 when Darwin arrived, and about 15,000 individuals total. All are threatened with extinction.

One interesting fact: these huge, peaceful creatures can rest for up to 16 hours per day.

2. Marine iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus)

Photo by Via Natura

The Galapagos is home to the only marine iguana in the world! These curious animals live on land but feed on a wide variety of algae on rocks in the sea, either skimming near the surface or diving more than 30 feet (9 m) deep. They can remain underwater for up to 45 minutes, until their body can no longer withstand the cold temperature.

It is said that these animals are an excellent example of adaptation. When algae are scarce, they have been seen eating crustaceans, grasshopers, and even terrestrial plants. When even those foods are hard to find, like during severe weather events associated with El Niño, the marine iguanas become thinner and shorter.

Marine iguanas have an exotic Jurassic appearance. Males are about 4-5 feet long and females about 2 feet. According to the IUCN, the population of Galapagos marine iguanas consists of approximately 50,000 individuals and is threatened by pollution and predation by exotic species on the islands.

3. Galapagos penguin (Spheniscus mendiculus)

Photo by Andean Travel Company

These penguins are the only wild endemic species that live north of the Equator in the Galapagos. They are descendants of a small group of extinct Humboldt penguins that scientists believe were carried to the Islands by the Humboldt Current, which originates in Antarctica and flows north along the west coast of South America from the southern tip of Chile to northern Peru.

Unlike other penguins, they can have up to three breeding periods per year, thanks to abundant food (fish and crustaceans) in the islands. They usually lay two eggs and incubate them for about 40 days. Approximately 1,000 individuals of this species live on the islands and they are classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List.

The Galapagos penguin is the world's third smallest penguin at only 20 inches tall approximately. In Spanish, they are called pájaro bobo, which means "silly bird."

4. Flightless cormorant (Phalacrocorax harrisi)

Photo by Surtrek Ecuador & Galapagos Tours

Also called the flightless cormorant of the Galapagos, this large endemic bird is unique because it is the only cormorant that has lost the ability to fly. These birds evolved in an isolated island environment that was free of predators. By gradual evolution, they felt no need to fly and eventually lost their flight. Their wings became greatly reduced, measuring only one-third of the area that would be necessary for a bird of its size to fly.

These birds live on the rocky shores of the volcanic islands they inhabit, where they fish for eels, small octopuses, fish, and other aquatic creatures.

Their population is estimated at around 900 individuals.

5. Galapagos sea lion (Zalophus wollebaecki)

Photo by Surtrek Ecuador & Galapagos Tours

These sea lions are among the largest animals of the Galapagos. They can weigh up to 550 lbs! They are a favorite among tourists, who see them lying on rocks, piers, and even benches near the beaches.

Galapagos sea lions are very friendly, and it is safe to dive and swim near them as long as you don't disturb them. However, it is common for groups of sea lions to fight each other over territory.

Females give birth to one pup per year and care for them until they are two or three years old. Females live longer than males--up to 20 years.

The Galapagos is home to about 50,000 sea lions.

The unique wildlife of the Galapagos is part of what makes this destination so special--and fragile as well. To protect these and other important species, tourists are only allowed to visit the Islands with a licensed tour company. Check out these sustainable tourism business in the Galapagos and plan the trip you'll never forget!

Birds of the Chocó Bioregion

The lush, humid forest of the Chocó bioregion is a bird lover's paradise that extends across western Colombia and into northwestern Ecuador. It is one of the most biologically rich areas of the world, particularly in terms of bird life, with more than 500 bird species in total, including over 60 endemic species that exist nowhere else in the world. In fact, the Chocó is classified by Birdlife International as an Endemic Bird Area (EBA), as it is one of the most critical regions for the conservation of birds in the world.

For everyone except the most expert birders, your chances of seeing wildlife are hugely increased by enlisting the services of a local guide who has intimate knowledge of the forest and its inhabitants' favorite spots to feed and congregate. Here are some of the bird beauties you might see during a visit to the famous Chocó bioregion:

Photo by Veronica Muñoz

Booted racket-tail
These emerald green hummingbirds with their fluffy white "boots" are hard to miss! They are common visitors to lodge bird feeders, so you should have a good chance of getting to see one fairly up close.

Photo by Veronica Muñoz

Cock of the rock
The males of this species look like something out of a surrealist painting! The truly lucky birder might witness an impressive "lek" display, during which a group of males will gather to compete for mates by performing complex courting rituals.

Photo by Tandayapa Bird Lodge

Velvet-purple coronet
This stunning, amethyst hummingbird is endemic to the Chocó region. They seem dull and drab until their feathers catch the light, treating spectators to a magical, iridescent sight.

Photo by Ben Tavener

Plate-billed mountain toucan
Listen for the mating duet of this species, which consists of females and males calling to each other with loud rattles and clicks.

Photo by Tad Boniecki

Turquoise jay
The turquoise jay is a vibrant blue color with a distinct black face mask. They often travel in big, noisy mixed flocks.

Photo by Tandayapa Bird Lodge

Red-headed barbet
The red-headed barbet is a strikingly-colored bird that loves to feast on bananas and other large fruit.

Learn more about sustainable birding tourism and how it supports the conservation of endangered bird species.

The Forest of El Jaguar

Photo by Reserva El Jaguar

High in the Isabelia Mountain Range in northern Nicaragua, there is a tropical cloud forest whose giant oak and fern trees date back to Jurassic times. These ancient trees provide shelter for a multitude of rare and exotic wildlife, including golden-winged warblers, pumas, and mountain lions. As World Migratory Bird Day approaches this weekend, we are celebrating this bountiful region as a haven for thousands of migratory birds that arrive each winter to escape colder northern climates.

Twenty years ago, as forests in the region were being destroyed to be replaced by coffee plantations, two people decided to save this important region. Lili Chavarría, an avid bird lover and ornithologist, and her husband Georges Duriaux, an organic coffee farmer, bought the 260-acre (120-hectare) tract of land from Lili's brother and named it the El Jaguar Private Wildlife Reserve and Organic Farm. Their vision was to create a model of sustainability based on three principles: environmental protection, sustainable production, and social responsibility.

Canadian Warbler - Photo by Reserva El Jaguar Today, they welcome tourists and researchers to stay at their Rainforest Alliance Verified ecolodge and experience the beautiful flora and fauna that abounds in El Jaguar. Visitors have a choice of staying in one of the two-bedroom cabins or one-bedroom bungalows, or in the biological station with bunk beds. All of the accommodations have hot water and are powered by solar energy.

Visitors can see take tours of Georges and Lili's family-run sustainable coffee farm that produces high quality coffee using environmentally-friendly methods that enhances habitat for wildlife. You'll be able to check out the trees that coffee beans come from--they might look different than you'd expect! Their farm has been certified for sustainability by the Rainforest Alliance and their product was the first coffee selected by Whole Foods Market to receive the Authentic Food Artisan seal. The farm was also designated an "Important Bird Area" by the bird conservation organization BirdLife International.

El Jaguar is home to an abundance of biodiversity, including hundreds of birds, mammals, butterflies, orchids, bromeliads, and dragonflies. Researchers have catalogued all of the species they've come across in El Jaguar – which includes 285 bird species alone -- and the entire list is available on El Jaguar's website. Coffee plant - Photo by Reserva El JaguarThe sheer size of the list gives you an idea of what a biologically rich area this really is! The nearby Lake Apanás is also a wonderful location for bird watching and boat tours.

For a cultural experience, travelers can visit the workshops of the black pottery artisans in Las Cureñas or make the 10-mile hike the picturesque town of San Rafael del Norte.

Georges and Lili were honored by the Rainforest Alliance as stewards of the forest for their work actively safeguarding the "lungs of our planet."

"We realized that in order to conserve our land, we needed to earn income from it," explains Georges. "I had experience with organic coffee production... [and] my wife is fascinated by ornithology and has always been a nature lover. So everything fell into place."

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