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Discovering a Connected Life in the Peruvian Amazon

Today's post comes from Irene Lane, the founder of Greenloons - a premier online resource dedicated to inspiring people to think different, be different and travel different in ways that help to ensure a more sustainable planet.

Golden Spotted Frog Near Tambopata Research Center

When I was younger, my preferred travel destinations were always cities. Perhaps it was because from the ages of 5 to 18, I lived in smaller towns, or maybe it was because I found cities to be life-affirming, educational, and liberating. Whatever the reason, I felt rejuvenated after a trip to Singapore, London, Paris, Sydney, or even New York. However, that sentiment changed with a recent trip to the Peruvian Amazon.

It was my third trip to a rainforest ecosystem and my second to the Amazon, but everything else about this trip would end up being unique. I was invited by Rainforest Expeditions in Peru, to participate in one of their wildlife photography safaris through the Tambopata National Reserve, a relatively remote and unexplored area of the Amazon.

Bursting with life

In a country where there are issues with water pollution, soil erosion, and deforestation, the Tambopata National Reserve is a fledgling success story of the symbiotic relationship that can exist between natural resources, wildlife, and cultural standards.

As a result, the region is bursting with life. It is not just the vast wildlife contained within the rainforest with its jaguars, caimans, capybaras, black hawks, geese, macaws, turtles, monkeys, peccaries, frogs, butterflies, and countless tree and plant species. Life was also encompassed within the sweet smell of the afternoon rains as we relaxed in hammocks at the Rainforest Alliance Verified™ Refugio Amazonas Lodge.

Parrots Pecking for Salk at the Clay Lick

My fellow travelers and I listened with rapt attention and fascination as we asked questions and learned from the area's volunteer ecologists, who were observing the habits and habitats of the myriad of butterfly, frog, and bird species in the region.

I observed life in the easy smiles of my three guides -- a professional photographer, an entomologist, and a local guide -- spotting what my suburban eyes always missed and eagerly imparting their knowledge about the mysteries of the rainforest. I learned that caimans are smaller, distant cousins of crocodiles with pointier heads, shorter tails, and U-shaped noses. And that butterflies drink the salty "tears" of the endangered yellow spotted river turtles, which helps the butterflies to reproduce.

The leaf-cutter ants that roam the rainforest floor live in communities of workers consisting of wingless female ants that never reproduce and male ants whose only function is to mate with a queen (after which he may die). Theirs is a truly female-led (and organized) society!

Caiman On The Shores of Rio Tambopata

Connecting with communities and nature

Ultimately, what changed my perspective was the profound sense of connection I quickly felt with the Peruvian rainforest. I felt connected to the local community because I stayed in sustainable lodges that partner with local families and businesses, sharing the social, economic, and environmental benefits of ecotourism.

I felt connected to the forest when the caiman "smiled" for my photo, and when I stared right into a frog's eyes and knew that it was just as curious about life as I am. On several occasions, peccaries suddenly emerged en masse from the rainforest, settled into the ecolodge's front clearing to eat some roots, and then completely disappeared 20 minutes later. I learned how to use medicinal plants to cure skin diseases, organ failure, and even addiction.

I wasn't merely observing the multitude of life around me, as I do when visiting cities. Instead, I felt like a direct participant doing her part to respect life, nature, culture, and the future.

Finally, I felt privileged to be among the people and indigenous tribe communities that work hard to preserve their culture and protect the land that, in turn, protects them in times of need - a truly connected life!

Sunrise through the Tambopata canopy

Photo of the Week: Royal Crest

Vea esta publicación en español.

Photo by by Andrew Snyde

Most of the time, the Amazonian royal flycatcher (Onychorhynchus coronatus coronatus) looks like an ordinary bird. But during courtship rituals and while competing with other males, this little bird shows a fantastic feather display on the crown of its head--a brilliant array of red, yellow, white, blue, and/or black.

This spectacular image of an Amazonian royal flycatcher with its royal red crest was taken in Guyana by Andrew Snyder for National Geographic's Your Shot.

This species is found in forests and woodlands throughout most of the Amazon basin in northern Bolivia, eastern Peru, eastern Ecuador, eastern Colombia, Venezuela, the Guyanas, and northern and western Brazil.

Five Reasons to Visit Ecuador

Vea esta publicación en español.

Ecuador is in vogue. If you check newspapers, travel magazines and websites, travel blogs, and other media outlets, you will find that this country is among the most acclaimed of 2014. Why the surge in interest in this particular South American nation? We invite you to check out 5 reasons travelers have rediscovered their passion for this wonderful country:

Photo by the Ecuador Ministry of Tourism


1. Named the #1 green destination of the year

During the twentieth World Travel Awards, considered one of the most important global tourism recognitions, Ecuador was honored as the "2013 World Green Destination." The country is home to 33 natural reserves protected by the government as well as many biologically significant and extensive tropical forests. Tourism businesses and the government are working closely to promote sustainable practices and have managed to position the country as a sustainable tourism leader in the Americas -- a view that is now resonating worldwide.

Photo by Catarata Eco Lodge, Costa Rica


2. Immense natural and cultural wealth

Ecuador is the world's most biodiverse country per square mile. It is home to more than 1,600 species of birds, 4,500 species of butterflies, 4,000 kinds of orchids, 345 species of reptiles, 358 amphibians, and 250 species of mammals, among others. Due to their irreplaceable natural value, the Sangay and Galapagos National Parks and the Galapagos Marine Reserve were declared UNESCO Natural World Heritage Sites. The country is also home to 27 different ethnic groups, all of them owners of a priceless and unique cultural heritage. As trends in tourism begin to shift from cookie-cutter resort vacation to more authentic, meaningful experiences, Ecuador's rich natural and cultural resources have been a boon for its tourism industry.

Photo by Catarata Eco Lodge, Costa Rica


3.The Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos archipelago consists of 13 islands, which began to form more than 5 million years ago. These are famous for their scenic beauty and for harboring numerous and spectacular endemic species such as giant tortoises and marine iguanas. Famously, Charles Darwin developed his theory of evolution based on research he conducted on the incredible wildlife found only on this Ecuadorian archipelago.

Photo by Catarata Eco Lodge, Costa Rica


4. The new Latin American king of chocolate

Since eating is a huge part of the travel experience, why not visit the number one Latin American country in cocoa production? Ecuador is the world's largest exporter of cocoa used for fine chocolates. Travelers can sample some of the world's best chocolates when they traverse the renowned "Cocoa Route" in the cacao growing region between Duran and Yaguachi.

Photo by Catarata Eco Lodge, Costa Rica


5. Variety for every kind of traveler


Ecuador hides impressive sites in the Amazon jungle as well as its mountains, and coastlines; it is home to the glorious Galapagos Islands and the famous city of Mitad del Mundo located on the equator, as well as a number of other brilliant cities worth discovering in their own right. An innovative and luxurious "Cruise Train" (Tren Crucero) makes the scenic journey between capital city Quito and the coastal city of Guayaquil, offering stunning views of the Andes.

Photo by Catarata Eco Lodge, Costa Rica

Travel insiders are going wild over Ecuador--National Geographic includes the Cacao Trail in its list of the "Best trips for 2014", and the entire country was included in both the New York Times list of "52 places to go in 2014" , and CNN's list of "11 sites to visit in 2014." Of course, we want you to enjoy Ecuador in a way that supports and protects its natural and cultural heritage, so be sure to book with a sustainable hotel and/or tour operator!

Brazilian Logger Turned Birder Aims to Turn His Community into Bird Sanctuary

Vea esta publicación en español.

Photo by Darío Sánchez

In the heart of the Brazilian Amazon is the Rio Negro Sustainable Development Reserve, an area that is rich in biodiversity and home to several small communities that depend on natural resources for a living. Pousada Garrido is the only hotel in the Tumbira region, and it is owned by a former logger and community leader named Roberto Mendonça.

Pousada Garrido has become a source of income for Mendonça as well as several other local families who offer tourism services to visitors. The inn also uses solar energy (as does the entire community), recycles, supports local artisans with reusable materials, and purchases foods from local producers. This year, Pousada Garrido earned Rainforest Alliance verification for sustainable tourism.

Tourists are drawn to Tumbira for the richness and exuberance of its forests, including the many bird species that abound there. Mendonça partnered with a local tour guide named Cleudilon, whose nickname is Passarinho, or "little bird" in Portuguese, because he can perfectly imitate 32 types of birds! (Scroll down to see an awesome video of Cleudilon calling to birds in the forest.) The two recently undertook a project to make the inn into a perfect site for bird watching. And you can help make it happen! Visit the community's crowdfunding page, to help them turn Tumbira into a community-based ecotourism center.

Paula Arantes of Garupa, the NGO helping Mendonça and Cleudilon raise money for the project, tells us more about the initiative.

Question: What is the plan for the money you hope to raise?

Paula Arantes: Roberto and Cleudilon want to turn their community into a birding and community tourism center. To get started, they intend to adapt the infrastructure of Pousada Garrido to sustainably accommodate more guests and provide what is needed for birding. They also want to publish a guide to the local birdlife as a reference for tourists and an educational resource for the children of the community.

Q: Why are Tumbira and Pousada Garrido such special places for bird watching?

Arantes: Though you can see birds everywhere in Amazon, Tumbira is special because its pathways make it easy to see many varieties of birds, and the area is easily accessible by land or by boat. Furthermore, Cleudilon's incredible talent for imitating birds and really enhances the birding experience.

Q: What do you need to carry out the project?

Arantes: Investments need to be made to expand the inn without negatively impacting the environment. More equipment is also needed for bird watching, and Cleudilon needs resources to develop the bird guide. The goal is to raise around US$8,800 (20,000 Brazilian reales) to help cover building materials, labor, the development of the guide, and more.

Q: What progress has been made so far?

Arantes: Thanks to the Rainforest Alliance verification process, we've identified the appropriate areas for making investments and improvements in a sustainable way.

Q: How does this project benefit the community?

Arantes: More tourists means more sustainable income for the residents! Supporting community-based tourism is one of the best ways for travelers to ensure that their vacation is sustainable.

Q: How can people help?

Arantes: On the project page on the Garupa website, you can find more details about the initiative and make an online donation to co-finance this effort. Donors receive tokens of appreciation, such as photographs, the bird guide, and even stays at the inn, depending on the amount contributed. Donating any amount, no matter how small, and sharing our project with your friends and family is the best way to make Roberto's dream a reality!

Watch this amazing video to see how Cleudilon imitates birds!

Monkeys of the Amazon Rainforest

Monkeys are often the animals that travelers want most to see when they visit the Amazon. Indeed, if you take a trip down to the Amazon and leave without seeing a monkey, you've missed an opportunity to encounter one of the world's most fascinating and beloved creatures! You're sure to spot at least a few of these amazing animals if you explore the forest with a knowledgeable local guide. Here are a few of the most peculiar and wonderful types of monkeys you can find in the Amazon:

Capuchin monkey

Capuchin monkeys are small creatures at around 3 pounds and so named as their distinctive coloring reminded explorers of the brown hooded robes of Capuchin Friars. Capuchin monkeys can jump up to nine feet, often bounding through the air from one tree to another. They are very clever animals and have been observed using leaves as cups to drink water from tree cavities. They feed on fruits, insects, and small birds and frogs.

Photo by Photo by Whaldener Endo


Emperor Tamarin

Many species of tamarin inhabit the forests of the Amazon, including the striking emperor tamarin, named for its resemblance to the mustachioed German emperor Wilhelm II. Tamarins are generally small creatures, growing no longer than 10 inches. They are known to be graceful, playful, and friendly in the wild. Emperor tamarins live in the southwest Amazon Basin where the borders of Peru, Bolivia, and Brazil intersect. A great place to seen an emperor tamarins is Manú National Park in Peru.

Photo by Brocken Inaglory


Pygmy marmoset

Even more unique than tamarins are marmosets, a family of tiny monkeys that are often endemic to a very small area. The pygmy marmoset pictured here is the smallest monkey in the world, weighing just over 3.5 ounces. The normally live in groups of six and communicate with each other via vocal calls, visual displays, and chemical secretions. The pygmy marmoset can rotate its head 180 degrees and feeds on the natural gum of trees. They inhabit much of the western Amazon Basin, and can be found in Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia.

Photo by Malene Thyssen


Howler monkey

The specialized vocal chamber of a howler monkey allows it to make those characteristic booming territorial calls that can be heard from three miles away--the loudest sound of any land animal. The first time you hear a howler monkey in person, it can be quite startling! They are relatively large (around 20 pounds) and slow-moving, and are the only folivores (leaf-eaters) of the New World monkeys. There are a variety of different species of howler monkey; the photogenic red howler pictured here was photographed in the southwestern region of the Amazon basin in Peru.

Photo by Tambopata Research Center

Photo by Tambopata Research Center.

Spider monkey

With their disproportionately long limbs and prehensile tails, spider monkeys are one of the largest as well as one of the most intelligent monkeys of the Amazon. Their bodies are about two feet long while their tails grow up to three feet long. As you might guess, spider monkeys use their long, strong tail as an extra limb, swinging with great agility from branch to branch.

Photo by Ivan Mlinaric


Squirrel monkey

Even smaller than capuchin monkeys at around 2 pounds, squirrel monkeys have been known to travel in packs of up to 500 individuals! They are naturally inquisitive and spend more time on the forest floor than any other Amazon monkey species, avoiding the upper canopy to hide from large birds of prey looking for a meal. Their diet consists primarily of fruits and insects.

Photo by David Dudenhoefer

Photo of the Week: Monkeying Around

Squirrel monkey -- Photo by Yachana Lodge, Ecuador

We love this photo of an Ecuadorian squirrel monkey just relaxing in the treetops. It feels like just the right sentiment for a Friday afternoon! Travelers to the Ecuadorian Amazon will have tons of wildlife encounters like this one, with hundreds of species of birds, monkeys, frogs, and more to discover in the forest.

Read more about the Ecuadorian Amazon:

Amazon Souls: British girl leaves the city to live with an indigenous tribe

Luxury in the Jungle: An exceptional ecotourism experience

Where Hemispheres Meet: A guide to travel in Ecuador

Amazon Souls

Amazon Souls, Sarah Begum

At the age of 21, Sarah Begum realized a childhood dream by leaving the UK to live with the Huaorani indigenous tribe deep in the forest of the Ecuadorian Amazon. Sarah immersed herself completely in the Huaorani way of life--hunting, gathering, and even marrying a local warrior. She made a documentary film of her journey called "Amazon Souls," which screened at the Cannes Film Festival for the first time earlier this year.

The Huaorani's ancestral home, Yasuni National Park, is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. The park is situated at the intersection of the Andes, the Equator, and the Amazon basin, where a stunning variety of birds, amphibians, insects, mammals, and flora converge. Some Huaorani communities welcome travelers, offering guided tours through the forest and a first-hand look into their fascinating way of life.

Begum's film raises awareness around the importance of rainforests and the rich cultures of its peoples. She spoke with us about her life-changing experience with the Huaorani.

Q. What inspired your journey to the Amazon rainforest?

Begum: When I was 9 years old, I learned about deforestation at school and immediately wanted to know more. My curiosity gave birth to a dream and a passion to save the Amazon rainforest.

Then at the age of 21, I was studying filmmaking at Kingston University and I didn't feel like I was getting enough from the course. I was appointed president of the Students in Free Enterprise (SIFE) and asked to come up with ideas for a project. I instantly thought of the Amazon rainforest and my classmates encouraged me to develop the idea.

I gave up my role at SIFE to focus on making my very first film in the rainforest. I poured my savings into the project, got some funding from a couple of private investors, and was awarded the Enterprising Student Award for my idea.

Q: Why did you choose to live with the Huaorani tribe?

Begum: I did a lot of research on tribes and I felt the greatest connection with the Huaorani. Their relationship to jaguars fascinated me as well as their pristine way of life and their status as the fiercest warriors of the Ecuadorian Amazon. I was compelled to find out more about them in person.

Q: What surprised you the most about their way of life?

Begum: I thought it would be how they hunt for food and gather resources–but the thing that surprised me the most is how westernization is affecting their culture.

Amazon Souls, Sarah Begum

Q: What are the big issues facing the Huaorani?

Begum: The biggest issue is losing their home and way of life to deforestation and oil exploitation. Recently, President Rafael Correa and the Ecuadorian government abandoned an initiative to keep oil in the ground. Ecuador needed to raise $3.6 billion to prevent drilling for oil in the park. When Correa closed the project, he had only raised $13 million. If this [drilling and deforestation] goes ahead, the Huaorani's way of life will be severely threatened.

Westernization is also a problem. While some young members choose to coexist with the western world, spreading the message about protecting their lands and raising awareness of their culture through eco-tourism, other members have chosen to abandon their culture completely.

Q: How do tourism activities impact the Huaoroni?

Begum: Tourism can have negative as well as positive effects. But ultimately, the Huaorani tribe does rely on ecotourism to sustain the jungle and their existence.

Q: Your documentary film, "Amazon Souls," screened at Cannes earlier this year. When can the public expect to see the film?

Begum: I am hoping to release the film worldwide once a broadcaster decides to take it on. After broadcast, I would like to make it available in many other forms for the public to be able to view and share. Fingers crossed! I also intend to go back to make a sequel, so hopefully with lots of support and backing I can make this happen. It would be great to show the Huaorani "Amazon Souls" in person.

Q: What's the one message you hope to spread?

Begum: We all need to unite as one in order to raise awareness of what is happening in the Amazon rainforest, and in rainforests all over the world. Oil exploitation and deforestation need to end. The rainforest shelters such beauty. The Huaorani are under serious threat--not only of losing their home, but of losing their way of life.

Q: What can people do to help protect the rainforests and the Huaorani way of life?

Begum: People are actually not very far away from the rainforest–-many things we use and eat are from the Amazon. We should be grateful to the Amazon for providing such treats and we can show our appreciation by supporting campaigns that aim to save the Amazon rainforest. We need to come together to raise awareness by spreading the message of its existence, its suffering, encourage support from others and share stories and videos such as "Amazon Souls." People can also help by supporting the Rainforest Alliance and others who aim to protect the Amazon on a daily basis.

***

Inspired to plan your next sustainable trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon? Check out Napo Wildlife Center and Sani Lodge to get started!

This interview was originally posted on the Rainforest Alliance's Frog Blog.

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